The Porta Nuova Loggia: Modern Pressure-Braised Veal Shank in Bianco with Melted Leeks and Hazelnut Gremolata

Instructions

1. 1

   Pat the 2 center-cut bone-in veal shanks dry with paper towels to ensure a crisp crust, then season generously on all sides with 1 tsp kosher salt and 0.5 tsp freshly cracked black pepper. Lightly dust both sides with 2 tbsp all-purpose flour, tapping off any excess.

   5 min

   Tip: Tying the shanks with kitchen twine acts as the structural frame, ensuring the meat clings to the marrow bone throughout the braise.

2. 2

   Set a modern electric pressure cooker or stovetop pressure cooker to the Sauté setting over medium-high heat. Warm 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil until shimmering, then add 2 center-cut bone-in veal shanks. Sear without disturbing until a deep, mahogany crust forms, about 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer the browned shanks to a warm resting plate.

   10 min

   Tip: Do not rush this step; this deep golden fond provides the foundational flavor of your entire pan sauce.

3. 3

   While the veal is searing, prep your soffritto by trimming and finely slicing 1 large leek, finely dicing 1 medium carrot and 1 celery rib, and lightly crushing 2 cloves garlic.

   6 min

   Tip: Keep the knife cuts uniform so the vegetables melt harmoniously into the sauce under pressure.

4. 4

   Lower the cooker heat to medium and melt 1 tbsp unsalted butter directly into the rendered veal drippings. Add 1 large leek, 1 medium carrot, 1 celery rib, and 2 cloves garlic. Sauté for 3 to 4 minutes until softened and fragrant, scraping up browned bits. Pour in 0.75 cup dry Northern Italian white wine to deglaze, simmering rapidly until reduced by half, about 2 minutes.

   6 min

   Tip: A crisp Arneis cuts right through the richness of the veal marrow, leaving clean, bright acidity.

5. 5

   Pour in 1 cup rich veal or beef brodo and tuck in 4 whole leaves fresh sage leaves along with 0.5 tsp kosher salt. Nest the browned 2 center-cut bone-in veal shanks back into the pot alongside any accumulated juices. Lock the pressure cooker lid, set to high pressure, and cook for 35 minutes.

   35 min

   Tip: This closed-loop braise locks in moisture and collapses connective tissue, replicating a three-hour Sunday simmer in thirty-five minutes flat.

6. 6

   While the braise takes care of itself, prepare the gremolata. In a small ceramic bowl, combine 0.25 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, 3 tbsp coarsely chopped toasted Piedmontese hazelnuts, 1 finely grated lemon zest, 1 finely grated garlic clove, and 2 finely chopped fresh sage leaves. Toss gently with a fork and set aside at room temperature.

   7 min

   Tip: The toasted hazelnuts provide a distinctly Piedmontese crunch, balancing the buttery richness of the veal.

7. 7

   Once the cooking cycle ends, allow the cooker to release pressure naturally for 10 minutes, then vent any remaining steam. Carefully lift 2 center-cut bone-in veal shanks out onto shallow, wide serving bowls. Discard the spent sage leaves.

   12 min

   Tip: Handle the shanks gently with a wide spatula so the prized marrow centers remain perfectly intact.

8. 8

   Switch the cooker back to Sauté mode and simmer the braising juices for 3 to 4 minutes until glossy and slightly reduced. Remove from heat and vigorously swirl in the remaining chilled 2 tbsp unsalted butter until the sauce emulsifies into a silk-like velvet glaze. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

   5 min

   Tip: Cold butter emulsifies into the hot brodo rather than melting into oil, creating an instantaneous restaurant-grade sheen.

9. 9

   Spoon the rich, aromatic leek reduction generously over each shank, allowing the sauce to pool in the bowls. Crown each piece with a generous scattering of the hazelnut-sage gremolata. Serve immediately with a small spoon for enjoying the marrow.

   2 min

   Tip: Serve alongside a crusty loaf of bread or a quick bed of creamy soft grains to catch every single drop of sauce.