Autumn in Santa Monica: My Delicata & Castelfranco Salade
When the morning fog rolls off the Pacific and settles over the Santa Monica farmers market, I immediately start craving the earthy, comforting flavors of my Parisian childhood—with a sunny California twist, bien sûr. This salade is my love letter to that exact feeling. The inspiration struck last October while chatting with Miguel, my favorite organic produce grower, who handed me the most stunning striped delicata squash and a head of ruffled Castelfranco chicory that looked like a watercolor painting. Back in my kitchen, I ditched the heavy gratins of my classical training. Instead, I roast the squash until caramelized and tender, pairing its sweetness with the bitter crunch of the chicory and crackling shards of salty Bayonne ham. A dollop of whipped Meyer lemon chèvre brings a bright, creamy punch, while a warm hazelnut-shallot vinaigrette ties it all together. What makes this dish so special to me is how it bridges two worlds: the comforting bistro soul of France and the vibrant, produce-driven joy of California. Tip for making it your own? Don't stress if you can't find Castelfranco; radicchio or endive will happily step in. Just promise me you won't skip the shallots!
Featured Recipe
Light-Roasted Delicata Squash & Castelfranco Salade with Meyer Lemon Chèvre and Bayonne Crisps
Autumn in Santa Monica by way of Saint-Germain: tender, caramelized delicata squash tossed with bitter, speckled Castelfranco chicory and crackling shards of French Bayonne ham. Pillows of citrus-whipped chèvre and a fragrant hazelnut-shallot vinaigrette keep every bite sun-drenched and vibrant.
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Timeline
Ingredients
- 2 medium delicata squash(about 1.5 lbs total, unpeeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced into 1/2-inch half-moons)
- 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil(divided; Californian cold-pressed preferred)
- 0.5 tsp piment d'Espelette(or sweet smoked paprika in a pinch)
- 0.75 tsp flaky sea salt(divided, such as Maldon)
- 0.5 tsp freshly ground black pepper(divided)
- 4 slices Jambon de Bayonne(about 2 oz, or thin prosciutto di Parma)
- 4 oz fresh chèvre(fresh goat cheese log, softened at room temperature)
- 2 tbsp crème fraîche
- 1 Meyer lemon(zested for 1 tsp zest, juiced for 1 tbsp juice)
- 1 small shallot(peeled and finely minced, about 2 tbsp)
- 1 tbsp Champagne vinegar
- 1 tsp Dijon mustard(traditional French smooth style)
- 2 tbsp toasted hazelnut oil(or walnut oil)
- 1 small head Castelfranco radicchio(about 4 cups loosely torn; frisée or Treviso work wonderfully too)
- 4 French breakfast radishes(trimmed and shaved paper-thin on a mandoline)
- 0.33 cup toasted hazelnuts(skins rubbed off, roughly chopped)
- 2 tbsp fresh tarragon(leaves stripped and gently torn)
- 1 tsp Meyer lemon zest(Used in step 3, only juice is listed in ingredients.)
- 1 crack Black pepper(Used in step 3, freshly ground black pepper is listed but 'crack' implies freshly ground.)
Instructions
- 1
Preheat your oven to 425°F (220°C). On a large parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet, toss 2 medium delicata squash slices with 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, 0.5 tsp piment d'Espelette, 0.5 tsp flaky sea salt, and 0.25 tsp freshly ground black pepper. Spread the squash out in a single layer so the cut sides make firm contact with the hot sheet pan.
5 min
Tip: Leave the delicate skin intact—it softens into pure silk in the oven and adds stunning color to the plate.
- 2
Slide the baking sheet into the oven and roast for 12 minutes. Remove briefly, lay 4 slices Jambon de Bayonne flat on the empty corners of the sheet, and return to the oven for 8 minutes more, until the squash is caramelized and tender when pierced with a knife and the ham is curled and crisped.
20 min
Tip: The ham will continue to crisp as it cools off the pan, so pull it the moment it darkens slightly and turns wavy.
- 3
While the squash roasts, make your whipped base: in a small mixing bowl or mini processor, combine 4 oz fresh chèvre, 2 tbsp crème fraîche, 1 tsp Meyer lemon zest, 0.125 tsp flaky sea salt, and a crack of black pepper. Whisk vigorously for 1 to 2 minutes until glossy and light as a cloud.
5 min
Tip: Room temperature goat cheese whips up exponentially faster and smoother than cold cheese straight from the chiller.
- 4
In a medium bowl, prepare the vinaigrette: whisk together 1 small shallot, 1 tbsp Meyer lemon juice, 1 tbsp Champagne vinegar, 1 tsp Dijon mustard, and the remaining 0.125 tsp flaky sea salt and 0.25 tsp freshly ground black pepper. Let the shallots macerate for 2 minutes, then slowly drizzle in 2 tbsp toasted hazelnut oil and the remaining 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, whisking until emulsified.
7 min
Tip: Macerating the shallots in the acidic lemon juice and vinegar tames their sharp bite, coaxing out their natural sweetness.
- 5
In a large salad bowl, combine 1 small head Castelfranco radicchio leaves, shaved 4 French breakfast radishes, and 2 tbsp fresh tarragon. Drizzle with half of the hazelnut-shallot vinaigrette and toss gently with clean fingers to lightly gloss the greens without bruising them.
5 min
Tip: Drop your shaved radishes into ice water for 5 minutes beforehand if you want them to curl up into impossibly crunchy ribbons.
- 6
To assemble, swoop a generous base of whipped chèvre across the bottom of four lunch plates or a wide bistro platter. Pile the dressed Castelfranco salad over top, then nestle in the warm roasted delicata squash. Snap the crispy Bayonne ham into rustic shards and scatter over the greens alongside 0.33 cup toasted hazelnuts. Drizzle the remaining vinaigrette over the squash and serve immediately.
5 min
Tip: The contrast between the warm, sweet squash and cold, creamy whipped goat cheese is sheer bistro heaven—assemble right before sitting down.
Chef's Notes
Delicata is my go-to autumn squash because there is zero wrestling with peelers—its tender, striped skin roasts into something nutty and caramelized that holds its shape against leafy greens. Castelfranco radicchio looks like pale yellow rosebuds speckled with burgundy; if your local market doesn't have it, a mix of frisée and Belgian endive makes a marvelous Parisian stand-in. Pour yourself a glass of chilled, slightly funky pét-nat or dry Chenin Blanc, tear off a piece of crusty sourdough, and take your time.
Marguerite Lavigne
French soul, California sun
I grew up in a small village outside Lyon, where my grandmother taught me that the best meals come from respecting your ingredients. After training at Le Cordon Bleu and spending years in Parisian kitchens, I moved to San Francisco and fell in love with California's farmers markets and wine country. Now I cook the food I wish my grandmother could taste—French technique with California abundance, where a perfect roast chicken might come with Meyer lemon and wild fennel instead of tarragon.