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Mouclade Californienne: Vadouvan Mussels with Shishitos & Avocado

Mouclade Californienne: Vadouvan Mussels with Shishitos & Avocado

Marguerite Lavigne
Marguerite Lavigne
·
musselscalifornia frenchnatural winebistro comfortseafood

Let me tell you a secret about classic French mouclade: it is delicious, but it will put you straight to sleep. Growing up, I loved the intoxicating aroma of curried mussels on the Atlantic coast, but that heavy cream always felt like an anchor. Last week, my favorite farmer at the Santa Monica market handed me a basket of gorgeous green shishitos and some perfectly ripe avocados. Inspiration struck like a hot pan. Why not give those bistro mussels a California sunbath? We steam the mussels in a generous splash of natural orange wine—drink the rest while you cook, obviously—and hit the broth with fragrant vadouvan and fresh lime instead of cream. At the very end, we toss in those blistered shishitos and big chunks of avocado. The avocado warms gently in the broth, melting into little pockets of buttery richness that absolutely outshine heavy cream. It is playful, highly aromatic, and totally unapologetic. Want to make it your own? Swap the shishitos for charred cherry tomatoes, or use a crisp, flinty Chenin Blanc for the broth. Just promise me you will have a good loaf of crusty sourdough nearby to mop up every last drop.

Featured Recipe

Mouclade Californienne: Vadouvan Mussels with Blistered Shishitos & Warm Avocado

Mouclade Californienne: Vadouvan Mussels with Blistered Shishitos & Warm Avocado

A classic French mouclade is a curried mussel dish usually drowning in heavy cream, born on the Atlantic coast. We are keeping the intoxicating aroma of vadouvan and the bistro ritual of steaming mussels in a good splash of natural wine, but giving it a West Coast sunbath. Instead of cream, the broth is brightened with fresh lime, and we toss in blistered shishito peppers and chunks of ripe avocado at the very end. The avocado warms gently in the hot broth, creating little pockets of richness that outshine heavy cream any day. It is playful, highly aromatic, and absolutely requires a good loaf of bread.

Prep: 15 minutes
Cook: 21 minutes
2 servings
medium

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Timeline

20 minutes
0m5m10m15m20m
Blister Shishitos
Melt Shallots and Leeks
Toast Sourdough Bread
Toast Spices
Deglaze with Wine
Steam Mussels
Add Avocado and Herbs

Ingredients

  • 2 lbs fresh mussels(scrubbed and debearded)
  • 4 oz shishito peppers(left whole)
  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil(a good California olive oil)
  • 1 tbsp cultured butter(I am opinionated about butter; use a good European-style one)
  • 3 large shallots(thinly sliced)
  • 1 medium leek(white and light green parts only, thinly sliced and rinsed)
  • 2 cloves garlic(smashed and roughly chopped)
  • 1 tbsp vadouvan curry powder(French curry blend; you can sub mild Madras curry powder)
  • 1 cup natural dry white wine(a crisp Chenin Blanc or Sauvignon Blanc)
  • 1 large avocado(ripe but still holding its shape, diced)
  • 1 whole lime(zested and juiced)
  • 1/4 cup fresh cilantro(roughly chopped)
  • 1 loaf crusty sourdough bread(thickly sliced for serving)

Instructions

  1. 1

    Heat a large, dry Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Toss in the 4 oz shishito peppers and blister them until they are charred in spots and slightly softened, about 4 minutes. Remove them from the pot and set aside on a plate.

    4 min

    Tip: Do not oil the pan for the shishitos; a dry blister gives them that perfect smoky edge without getting greasy.

  2. 2

    Lower the heat to medium. Add the 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil and 1 tbsp cultured butter to the pot. Once the butter is foaming, stir in the 3 large shallots and the 1 medium leek. Sauté until they are meltingly soft and sweet, about 6 minutes.

    6 min

    Tip: Take your time here. Melted leeks and shallots form the soulful base of our broth.

  3. 3

    While the alliums are melting, heat a grill pan or toaster to toast the slices from your 1 loaf crusty sourdough bread. You will want these hot and ready for the broth.

    5 min

    Tip: I like to rub the warm toast with a raw garlic clove right as it comes off the heat.

  4. 4

    Stir the 2 cloves garlic and 1 tbsp vadouvan curry powder into the soft leek mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, until the spices are incredibly fragrant, about 1 minute.

    1 min

    Tip: Toasting the curry powder wakes up the essential oils in the spices.

  5. 5

    Pour in the 1 cup natural dry white wine, scraping up any beautiful browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Let it bubble vigorously and reduce slightly for 2 minutes to cook off the raw alcohol.

    2 min

    Tip: Pour yourself a glass of the wine while you are at it. Cooking should be fun.

  6. 6

    Add the 2 lbs fresh mussels and the reserved blistered shishitos to the pot. Give everything a quick toss, cover tightly with a lid, and steam until the mussels open wide, about 5 to 7 minutes. Discard any mussels that fiercely refuse to open.

    6 min

    Tip: Shake the pot a couple of times while steaming to redistribute the mussels so they cook evenly.

  7. 7

    Remove the pot from the heat. Gently fold in the 1 large avocado, the zest and juice of the 1 whole lime, and the 1/4 cup fresh cilantro. The residual heat will warm the avocado, releasing its oils to slightly emulsify the broth without turning to mush. Serve immediately in wide bowls with the toasted sourdough.

    2 min

    Tip: Do not put the pot back on the heat after adding the avocado, or it will turn bitter. We just want it warmed and kissed by the broth.

Chef's Notes

The secret to this dish is the avocado trick. Traditional mouclade relies on heavy cream to balance the assertive vadouvan spices, but folding in warm chunks of avocado at the very end provides that same luxurious mouthfeel while keeping the dish feeling incredibly light and Californian. Make sure to source your mussels from a reputable fishmonger, and always smell them—they should smell like a clean ocean breeze, never fishy.

Marguerite Lavigne

Marguerite Lavigne

French soul, California sun

I grew up in a small village outside Lyon, where my grandmother taught me that the best meals come from respecting your ingredients. After training at Le Cordon Bleu and spending years in Parisian kitchens, I moved to San Francisco and fell in love with California's farmers markets and wine country. Now I cook the food I wish my grandmother could taste—French technique with California abundance, where a perfect roast chicken might come with Meyer lemon and wild fennel instead of tarragon.