A Sunny Parisian Morning in California: Soft-Folded Eggs with Molten Goat Cheese
A sunny Parisian morning doesn't have to mean heavy cream and dimly lit bistros. When I first moved to California, I found myself craving the comforting, custardy omelets of my youth, but my palate wanted something brighter to match the Pacific sun. That is how these Soft-Folded Eggs with Molten Goat Cheese and Shaved Summer Squash were born. I remember wandering through the Santa Monica farmers market, chatting with Hector, who grows the most ridiculously vibrant yellow squash. I brought a haul back to my kitchen, shaved them into delicate ribbons, and tossed them with Meyer lemon juice. For the eggs, we are gently coaxing them over low heat—lots of good salted butter is non-negotiable here, mes amis! Right before they set, we fold in fresh, tangy goat cheese so it forms little molten pockets. It is classic French technique stripped of the stuffiness. What makes this so special to me is how it bridges my two worlds so effortlessly. To make it your own, do not be afraid to swap the squash for shaved asparagus in the spring, or add a handful of chopped tarragon. Just pour yourself a glass of chilled pet-nat and enjoy the morning.
Featured Recipe
Soft-Folded Eggs with Molten Goat Cheese & Shaved Summer Squash
A sunny Parisian morning doesn't have to mean heavy cream and dark bistros. Here in California, I love starting the day with eggs gently coaxed and folded over low heat until perfectly glossy and custard-like. We're folding in fresh, tangy goat cheese at the very last second so it forms little molten pockets, and topping it all with vibrant, citrus-kissed ribbons of summer squash.
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Timeline
Ingredients
- 1 small young summer squash(yellow or green zucchini works wonderfully)
- 1/2 ripe avocado(peeled and thinly sliced)
- 1 small shallot(very thinly sliced)
- 1/2 Meyer lemon(juiced)
- 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil(the good stuff)
- 2 pinches flaky sea salt(divided)
- 2 thick slices sourdough levain(for toasting)
- 6 large pasture-raised eggs(room temperature is best)
- 1 tbsp unsalted butter(European style if possible)
- 3 oz fresh goat cheese(chèvre)
- 1 tbsp fresh tarragon and chives(finely chopped)
- 1 pinch fresh black pepper(to taste)
Instructions
- 1
Using a vegetable peeler, shave 1 small young summer squash into delicate ribbons. Thinly slice 1/2 ripe avocado and 1 small shallot. Toss gently in a bowl with the juice of 1/2 Meyer lemon, 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, and 1 pinch flaky sea salt. Let it marinate and soak up the California sun while you prepare the eggs.
5 min
Tip: Don't overmix the avocado or it will turn into guacamole. We want distinct, beautiful ribbons and slices.
- 2
Heat a heavy skillet or grill pan over medium-high heat. Toast 2 thick slices sourdough levain until golden and crisp on the edges, but still yielding in the center.
5 min
Tip: A little olive oil brushed on the bread before toasting never hurt anyone.
- 3
Crack 6 large pasture-raised eggs into a bowl. Whisk vigorously until absolutely no streaks of egg white remain. Season with 1 pinch flaky sea salt.
2 min
Tip: Room temperature eggs incorporate air better and cook more evenly. Whisk right before cooking, not earlier.
- 4
Melt 1 tbsp unsalted butter in a nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. You want it to foam slightly but absolutely not brown—this is a gentle morning dish.
2 min
Tip: If your pan gets too hot and the butter browns, wipe it out and start over. Patience is key.
- 5
Pour in the eggs. Let them sit undisturbed for just a few seconds until the edges barely start to set. Using a silicone spatula, gently push and fold the eggs from the edges to the center, letting the raw egg run back onto the pan. Cook low and slow.
2 min
Tip: Think of folding rather than scrambling. We want large, tender, custard-like curds.
- 6
While the eggs are still quite runny, crumble in 3 oz fresh goat cheese. Continue softly folding the curds until they are just set but still deeply glossy (we call this 'baveuse' in French). Immediately remove from heat and fold in 1 tbsp fresh tarragon and chives.
1 min
Tip: The residual heat of the pan will continue cooking the eggs, so take them off the flame a few seconds before you think they are done.
- 7
Divide the soft-folded eggs over the toasted sourdough. Top with a tangle of the marinated squash and avocado salad. Finish with 1 pinch fresh black pepper and serve immediately.
2 min
Tip: Make sure to spoon some of the citrusy olive oil from the salad bowl over the top of the toast.
Chef's Notes
The secret to this dish is the technique of soft-folding. Do not aggressively stir the eggs; gently push and fold them. The goat cheese melts into the warm curds, creating a luxurious, creamy texture without adding a drop of heavy cream. It's the perfect balance of a rich, comforting French classic lifted by the bright, zesty crunch of California produce.
Marguerite Lavigne
French soul, California sun
I grew up in a small village outside Lyon, where my grandmother taught me that the best meals come from respecting your ingredients. After training at Le Cordon Bleu and spending years in Parisian kitchens, I moved to San Francisco and fell in love with California's farmers markets and wine country. Now I cook the food I wish my grandmother could taste—French technique with California abundance, where a perfect roast chicken might come with Meyer lemon and wild fennel instead of tarragon.