High-Heat Delicata Squash Rings: Brown-Butter Baharat, Labneh–Tahini, and the Crunch That Makes It
Winter cooking, for me, is all about contrast: hot and cold, creamy and shatter-crisp, sweet squash and salty little surprises. This dish was born somewhere between Tel Aviv nights—spice in the air, everything glowing—and London winters, when I’d come home craving something warm, loud, and comforting but still bright.
I remember the first time I roasted delicata this hard. I was impatient (as usual), cranked the oven, and the rings came out with those dark, lacy edges that taste almost like caramelized toast. That was it. I started treating squash like I treat good bread: you want color, you want drama.
What makes this recipe special to me is the layering. The baharat brown-butter oil is nutty and perfumed, the whipped labneh–tahini is a tangy, sesame-rich cushion, and the crispy caper–pistachio crumbs are pure “one more bite.” It eats like a centerpiece but behaves like a side.
Make it yours: swap pistachios for almonds, add pomegranate seeds for pop, or stir a little harissa into the oil if you like heat. And don’t skip the herbs—more is always the answer.
Featured Recipe
High-Heat Delicata Squash Rings with Warm Baharat Brown-Butter Oil, Whipped Labneh–Tahini, and Crispy Caper–Pistachio Crumbs
This is my kind of winter side: delicata squash roasted at a brutal heat until the edges go lacy and dark, then dragged through a warm, fragrant spice oil that smells like Tel Aviv nights and London cold snaps. I serve it over a creamy labneh–tahini cloud (tangy, nutty, impossible to stop eating) and finish with crunchy caper–pistachio crumbs for that “one more bite” texture. It anchors a table like a centerpiece—but it’s also very happy to become your vegetarian main with warm pita or a pot of grains.
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Ingredients
- 2 Delicata squash(medium; scrubbed well (skin is edible))
- 3 tbsp Extra-virgin olive oil(for roasting)
- 1 1/2 tsp Kosher salt(plus more to taste)
- 1/2 tsp Black pepper
- 1 cup Labneh(or thick Greek yogurt)
- 1/3 cup Tahini(well-stirred)
- 2 tbsp Lemon juice(plus more to taste)
- 1 clove Garlic(finely grated)
- 2 tbsp Ice-cold water(to loosen the cream)
- 4 tbsp Unsalted butter(for the warm spice oil (swap: olive oil for dairy-free))
- 2 tbsp Extra-virgin olive oil(for the warm spice oil)
- 2 tsp Baharat(or a mix of cumin + coriander + cinnamon + allspice)
- 1 tsp Smoked paprika
- 1 tsp Aleppo pepper(or mild chili flakes)
- 1/4 tsp Ground turmeric(for color; optional)
- 1 1/2 tsp Honey(just enough to round the spices (optional))
- 2 tbsp Capers(drained and patted very dry)
- 1/2 cup Panko breadcrumbs(or torn sourdough crumbs)
- 1/3 cup Pistachios(roughly chopped)
- 1 tsp Lemon zest(from 1 lemon)
- 1/4 cup Fresh dill(roughly chopped)
- 1/4 cup Fresh mint(roughly chopped)
- 1 tbsp Toasted sesame seeds(for finishing)
- 1 pinch Flaky salt(to finish)
Instructions
- 1
Heat the oven to 475°F / 245°C. Put a heavy sheet pan in the oven to preheat—this is how we get that immediate sizzle and the crisp, browned edges that make delicata feel like it’s been kissed by a grill.
10 min
Tip: If you have convection, use it. If your smoke alarm is dramatic, crack a window now.
- 2
Prep the squash: cut 2 Delicata squash crosswise into 3/4-inch rings. Scoop out seeds with a spoon (save seeds if you like to roast them later). Toss rings with 3 tbsp Extra-virgin olive oil, 1 1/2 tsp Kosher salt, and 1/2 tsp Black pepper.
8 min
Tip: Rings roast more evenly than wedges and give you those gorgeous little charred halos—this is a plating trick that also improves texture.
- 3
Carefully remove the hot pan, spread squash rings in a single layer, and roast until deeply browned underneath, then flip and roast again until tender and bronzed.
18 min
Tip: About 10 minutes first side, 6–8 minutes second side. You’re looking for dark edges and caramelized freckles—don’t pull them pale.
- 4
While the squash roasts, whip the creamy element: in a bowl, combine 1 cup Labneh, 1/3 cup Tahini, 2 tbsp Lemon juice, 1 clove Garlic, and 1/2 tsp Kosher salt. Whisk hard, then whisk in 2 tbsp Ice-cold water until it turns glossy and swooshable.
5 min
Tip: Cold water + vigorous whisking = that airy, restauranty texture. Taste and sharpen with more lemon if you like it loud (I do).
- 5
Make the crispy caper–pistachio crumbs: in a small skillet over medium heat, toast 1/2 cup Panko breadcrumbs in 1 tbsp Extra-virgin olive oil until golden. Add 2 tbsp Capers and cook 1 minute to crisp and perfume the oil. Stir in 1/3 cup Pistachios and 1 tsp Lemon zest; remove from heat and season with a pinch of salt.
6 min
Tip: Dry capers well or they’ll spit. The goal is crunch with salty little pops.
- 6
Make the warm spice oil: in the same skillet (no need to wash), melt 4 tbsp Unsalted butter with 2 tbsp Extra-virgin olive oil over medium heat. Cook until the butter smells nutty and turns light amber. Add 2 tsp Baharat, 1 tsp Smoked paprika, 1 tsp Aleppo pepper, and 1/4 tsp Ground turmeric; cook 30 seconds until blooming and fragrant. Stir in 1 1/2 tsp Honey (if using) and a pinch of salt, then take off the heat.
5 min
Tip: Spices burn fast—take the pan off the heat as soon as they bloom. The oil should be warm and aromatic, not bitter.
- 7
Assemble like a centerpiece: swoosh the whipped labneh–tahini onto a platter. Pile the hot squash rings on top. Spoon the warm spice oil over the squash (let it drip into the creamy base). Shower with caper–pistachio crumbs, 1/4 cup Fresh dill, 1/4 cup Fresh mint, 1 tbsp Toasted sesame seeds, and a final pinch of 1 pinch Flaky salt.
5 min
Tip: Serve immediately while the squash is hot and the oil is warm—the contrast with the cold-ish cream is the whole point.
Chef's Notes
This dish is my February table trick: three textures (roasty-soft squash, cool creamy base, loud crunch) and one warm-spice perfume that hits the room before it hits the plate. If you want it vegan, swap the butter for more olive oil and use a thick plant yogurt + tahini. If you want it heartier as a veg main, spoon it over warm lentils or freekeh and add a handful of chopped olives—suddenly it’s dinner.
Yael Mizrahi
Bold flavors, beautiful plates
Born in Tel Aviv to a Moroccan mother and Iraqi father, I grew up speaking the language of spice. My kitchen was always full of cumin, preserved lemons, and the sound of multiple conversations happening at once. I moved to London at 22, cooked my way through the city's best restaurants, and discovered that the whole Mediterranean was my playground. Now I create dishes that celebrate the entire region—from Marrakech to Athens, with plenty of stops in between.