My Saturday Whole-Roast Branzino: Zhug–Tahini, Smashed Fennel, and the Breadcrumb Crunch I Can’t Quit
Saturday night, I want dinner to feel like a little ceremony—but not a project that eats the whole evening. This whole-roast branzino is my sweet spot: high heat, shatteringly crisp skin, and that moment halfway through when I brush on the green zhug–tahini baste and the kitchen turns into pure Tel Aviv nostalgia.
Growing up, the best fish was never fussy. It was hot, smoky, drenched in herbs, and eaten with your hands while everyone argued about which bit of skin was the crispiest. London taught me restraint on the plate, but my heart still wants punch: cilantro, green chile, garlic, lemon—then tahini to round it out into something creamy and clingy.
What makes this dish special is the layering of textures. The fennel–olive smashed salad isn’t “a side”—it’s a sponge for the drippings, all crunch and brine and anise. Then I rain over crispy oregano breadcrumbs because every Mediterranean meal deserves a little edible confetti.
Make it yours: swap in sea bass or trout; go red zhug if you like heat; add preserved lemon to the salad; and don’t be shy with herbs. More herbs is always the answer.
Featured Recipe
Saturday Whole-Roast Branzino with Green Zhug–Tahini Baste, Fennel–Olive Smashed Salad, and Crispy Oregano Breadcrumbs
This is my Saturday-night fish: whole branzino blasted at high heat until the skin crackles, then lacquered mid-roast with a bold green zhug–tahini baste that perfumes the kitchen like a Tel Aviv grill stand. I serve it over a smashed fennel-and-cucumber salad that soaks up the drippings, and I finish with crunchy oregano breadcrumbs for that Mediterranean “why is this so addictive?” texture.
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Ingredients
- 2 Whole sea bass (branzino), cleaned (about 450–600 g / 1–1.25 lb each)(Ask for scaled, gutted; keep head and tail on for drama and moisture)
- 2 1/2 tsp Kosher salt(Plus more to taste)
- 1 tsp Freshly ground black pepper
- 5 tbsp Extra-virgin olive oil(Divided)
- 1 large Fennel bulb(Fronds reserved)
- 1 large English cucumber
- 1/2 cup Castelvetrano olives, pitted(Or any buttery green olive)
- 2 tbsp Capers, drained(Optional but very good)
- 1 Lemon(Zest + juice, plus wedges to serve)
- 2 tsp Red wine vinegar
- 1/2 cup Fresh dill(Roughly chopped)
- 1/2 cup Fresh mint(Roughly chopped)
- 1/2 cup Fresh parsley(Roughly chopped)
- 4 Scallions(Thinly sliced)
- 3 cloves Garlic(2 for zhug, 1 for breadcrumbs)
- 1 packed cup Fresh cilantro(For green zhug)
- 1–2 Fresh green chilies (serrano or jalapeño)(Seed for less heat, keep seeds for full zhug punch)
- 1 tsp Ground cumin
- 1/2 tsp Ground coriander
- 1/4 tsp Cardamom(Optional, but it makes the aroma feel special)
- 3 tbsp Tahini (well-stirred)(I like one with a deep sesame bitterness)
- 2–4 tbsp Cold water(To loosen the baste)
- 3/4 cup Panko breadcrumbs(Or coarse fresh breadcrumbs)
- 1 1/2 tsp Dried oregano(Or 1 tbsp fresh, finely chopped)
- 1 tsp Aleppo pepper(Or mild chili flakes)
- 2 tbsp Unsalted butter(Or olive oil for dairy-free)
- 1/2 cup Fennel fronds(To finish (plus extra herbs if you’re like me))
Instructions
- 1
Heat the oven (and your tray). Set a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 250°C/475°F. Slide a heavy sheet pan (or cast-iron griddle pan) into the oven to preheat too—this is how I cheat crisp skin at home.
10 min
Tip: A ripping-hot surface jump-starts blistering so the fish doesn’t just steam.
- 2
Make the green zhug–tahini baste. In a small food processor (or mortar), blitz cilantro, 1–2 Fresh green chilies (serrano or jalapeño), 2 cloves Garlic, cumin, coriander, (cardamom if using), 2 tbsp Extra-virgin olive oil, 1/2 tsp Kosher salt, and 1/2 tsp Lemon zest until spoonable. Stir in 3 tbsp Tahini (well-stirred) and 2 tbsp Cold water to loosen into a glossy paste; add another splash of water if it’s too thick to brush.
8 min
Tip: This isn’t a sauce for the side—it’s a baste, so I want it bold, salty, and a little bitter from tahini.
- 3
Build the smashed fennel–olive salad base. Thinly slice the 1 large Fennel bulb (mandoline if you have it). Halve the 1 large English cucumber lengthwise, then smash lightly with the side of a knife and tear into chunky pieces. Toss fennel, cucumber, 1/2 cup Castelvetrano olives, pitted, 2 tbsp Capers, drained, 1/2 Lemon juice, 2 tsp Red wine vinegar, 2 tbsp Extra-virgin olive oil, 1 tsp Kosher salt, and lots of 1 tsp Freshly ground black pepper. Fold in 1/2 cup Fresh dill, 1/2 cup Fresh mint, 1/2 cup Fresh parsley, and 4 Scallions. Taste; it should be bright enough to wake the fish up.
12 min
Tip: Smashing the cucumber makes crags that grab dressing and fish juices. This is my favorite kind of ‘salad’—one that behaves like a sauce.
- 4
Season the branzino properly. Pat the 2 Whole sea bass (branzino), cleaned (about 450–600 g / 1–1.25 lb each) very dry (this matters). Score the skin 3 shallow slashes on each side. Season inside and out with the remaining 2 tsp Kosher salt and 1 tsp Freshly ground black pepper, rubbing it into the scores. Drizzle with 1 tbsp Extra-virgin olive oil and rub to coat.
6 min
Tip: Dry fish + hot tray = crisp skin. If it’s wet, you’ll get pale, floppy skin and we’re not doing that on a Saturday.
- 5
Start the roast for crisp skin. Carefully pull out the hot sheet pan, film it with 1 tsp Extra-virgin olive oil, and lay the fish on it. Roast 8 minutes until the skin begins to blister and tighten.
8 min
Tip: If your fish are on the smaller side, start checking at minute 6.
- 6
Baste, then finish at high heat. Brush a generous layer of the green zhug–tahini baste over the top and into the scores. Return to the oven and roast another 6–10 minutes, until the thickest part of the flesh flakes and the skin is crackly. (Target internal temp: ~52–55°C/125–131°F for juicy.)
9 min
Tip: The baste goes on after the first blast so it perfumes and lacquers without preventing crisping.
- 7
Make the crispy oregano breadcrumbs while the fish finishes. In a skillet, melt 2 tbsp Unsalted butter (or warm 2 tbsp Extra-virgin olive oil) over medium heat. Add 3/4 cup Panko breadcrumbs, 1 1/2 tsp Dried oregano, 1 tsp Aleppo pepper, and the remaining 1 clove Garlic (microplaned or finely grated). Toast, stirring, until deep golden and loud-crunchy. Pinch of salt. Off heat, add a little 1/4 Lemon zest.
6 min
Tip: Breadcrumbs are my secret weapon for ‘restaurant energy’ at home: they add crunch where fish and salad are all softness.
- 8
Rest, then plate like you mean it. Let the fish rest 2 minutes. Spoon the fennel–olive salad onto a platter, lay the whole branzino on top, scatter 1/2 cup Fennel fronds and more herbs, then rain the crispy oregano breadcrumbs over everything. Serve with lemon wedges and any extra zhug–tahini baste on the side.
5 min
Tip: I like to let some breadcrumbs hit the salad so they soak slightly—crunch plus juicy is the point.
Chef's Notes
This dish is my mash-up of Tel Aviv seaside fish and my London habit of turning salads into the main event. The green zhug–tahini baste is intentionally unconventional: tahini isn’t just for dipping—it’s a roasted-sesame lacquer that loves high heat when you apply it mid-roast. If you can’t find branzino, do this with whole dorade (sea bream). If whole fish intimidates you, ask the fishmonger to butterfly it (spatchcock style): it cooks even faster and gets even crispier.
Yael Mizrahi
Bold flavors, beautiful plates
Born in Tel Aviv to a Moroccan mother and Iraqi father, I grew up speaking the language of spice. My kitchen was always full of cumin, preserved lemons, and the sound of multiple conversations happening at once. I moved to London at 22, cooked my way through the city's best restaurants, and discovered that the whole Mediterranean was my playground. Now I create dishes that celebrate the entire region—from Marrakech to Athens, with plenty of stops in between.