The Porta Nuova Loggia: Modern Pressure-Braised Veal Shank in Bianco
Looking up at the sleek glass skyscrapers of Milan's Porta Nuova district always reminds me how beautifully our city balances ultra-modern momentum with deep-rooted tradition. That juxtaposition inspired my Porta Nuova Loggia Veal Shank. Growing up, my grandmother's ossobuco was a Sunday ritual requiring hours of patient simmering. But my fast-paced metropolitan reality demands a different approach. By leaning on a trusty pressure cooker, dry white wine, and premium brodo, we achieve that same melting, fork-tender perfection in a fraction of the time. The leeks act as our load-bearing foundation, melting down into a sweet, velvety sauce, while a vibrant gremolata of toasted Piedmontese hazelnuts, bright lemon zest, and fresh sage provides the ultimate architectural contrast. Let the ingredients do the heavy lifting. To make it your own, swap the veal for thick-cut turkey ossobuco or even sturdy root vegetables for a vegetarian twist. Weeknight cooking should feel like an escape, not a chore, bringing a touch of Milanese sophistication right to your table.
Featured Recipe
The Porta Nuova Loggia: Modern Pressure-Braised Veal Shank in Bianco with Melted Leeks and Hazelnut Gremolata
A contemporary weeknight tribute to Milanese ossobuco, braised to falling-apart tenderness in a fraction of the time using a high-pressure braise with dry white wine and rich brodo. Finished with a structural pan reduction and a fragrant, crunchy gremolata of toasted Piedmontese hazelnuts, lemon zest, and sage.
Save a copy to your collection for editing
Timeline
Ingredients
- 2 center-cut bone-in veal shanks(about 1 to 1.25 lbs each, tied securely with kitchen twine to hold their shape)
- 1.5 tsp kosher salt(divided)
- 0.5 tsp freshly cracked black pepper(coarsely ground)
- 2 tbsp all-purpose flour(for dusting)
- 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil(robust Italian oil)
- 3 tbsp unsalted butter(divided; 1 tablespoon for the sauté, 2 tablespoons chilled and cubed for finishing)
- 1 large leek(white and pale green parts only, washed thoroughly and finely sliced)
- 1 medium carrot(finely brunoised)
- 1 celery rib(finely brunoised)
- 3 cloves garlic(2 cloves smashed for the braise, 1 clove finely grated for the gremolata)
- 0.75 cup dry Northern Italian white wine(such as Roero Arneis or Gavi di Gavi)
- 1 cup rich veal or beef brodo(high-quality store-bought or butcher brodo)
- 6 fresh sage leaves(4 whole leaves for the braise, 2 leaves very finely chopped for the gremolata)
- 0.25 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley(finely chopped leaves)
- 1 lemon(zest finely grated)
- 3 tbsp toasted Piedmontese hazelnuts(coarsely chopped)
- 1 clove garlic(for gremolata)
- 1 lemon zest(for gremolata)
Instructions
- 1
Pat the 2 center-cut bone-in veal shanks dry with paper towels to ensure a crisp crust, then season generously on all sides with 1 tsp kosher salt and 0.5 tsp freshly cracked black pepper. Lightly dust both sides with 2 tbsp all-purpose flour, tapping off any excess.
5 min
Tip: Tying the shanks with kitchen twine acts as the structural frame, ensuring the meat clings to the marrow bone throughout the braise.
- 2
Set a modern electric pressure cooker or stovetop pressure cooker to the Sauté setting over medium-high heat. Warm 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil until shimmering, then add 2 center-cut bone-in veal shanks. Sear without disturbing until a deep, mahogany crust forms, about 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer the browned shanks to a warm resting plate.
10 min
Tip: Do not rush this step; this deep golden fond provides the foundational flavor of your entire pan sauce.
- 3
While the veal is searing, prep your soffritto by trimming and finely slicing 1 large leek, finely dicing 1 medium carrot and 1 celery rib, and lightly crushing 2 cloves garlic.
6 min
Tip: Keep the knife cuts uniform so the vegetables melt harmoniously into the sauce under pressure.
- 4
Lower the cooker heat to medium and melt 1 tbsp unsalted butter directly into the rendered veal drippings. Add 1 large leek, 1 medium carrot, 1 celery rib, and 2 cloves garlic. Sauté for 3 to 4 minutes until softened and fragrant, scraping up browned bits. Pour in 0.75 cup dry Northern Italian white wine to deglaze, simmering rapidly until reduced by half, about 2 minutes.
6 min
Tip: A crisp Arneis cuts right through the richness of the veal marrow, leaving clean, bright acidity.
- 5
Pour in 1 cup rich veal or beef brodo and tuck in 4 whole leaves fresh sage leaves along with 0.5 tsp kosher salt. Nest the browned 2 center-cut bone-in veal shanks back into the pot alongside any accumulated juices. Lock the pressure cooker lid, set to high pressure, and cook for 35 minutes.
35 min
Tip: This closed-loop braise locks in moisture and collapses connective tissue, replicating a three-hour Sunday simmer in thirty-five minutes flat.
- 6
While the braise takes care of itself, prepare the gremolata. In a small ceramic bowl, combine 0.25 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, 3 tbsp coarsely chopped toasted Piedmontese hazelnuts, 1 finely grated lemon zest, 1 finely grated garlic clove, and 2 finely chopped fresh sage leaves. Toss gently with a fork and set aside at room temperature.
7 min
Tip: The toasted hazelnuts provide a distinctly Piedmontese crunch, balancing the buttery richness of the veal.
- 7
Once the cooking cycle ends, allow the cooker to release pressure naturally for 10 minutes, then vent any remaining steam. Carefully lift 2 center-cut bone-in veal shanks out onto shallow, wide serving bowls. Discard the spent sage leaves.
12 min
Tip: Handle the shanks gently with a wide spatula so the prized marrow centers remain perfectly intact.
- 8
Switch the cooker back to Sauté mode and simmer the braising juices for 3 to 4 minutes until glossy and slightly reduced. Remove from heat and vigorously swirl in the remaining chilled 2 tbsp unsalted butter until the sauce emulsifies into a silk-like velvet glaze. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.
5 min
Tip: Cold butter emulsifies into the hot brodo rather than melting into oil, creating an instantaneous restaurant-grade sheen.
- 9
Spoon the rich, aromatic leek reduction generously over each shank, allowing the sauce to pool in the bowls. Crown each piece with a generous scattering of the hazelnut-sage gremolata. Serve immediately with a small spoon for enjoying the marrow.
2 min
Tip: Serve alongside a crusty loaf of bread or a quick bed of creamy soft grains to catch every single drop of sauce.
Chef's Notes
Growing up watching my Piedmontese nonna tend her copper braising pot for four hours on a foggy Sunday taught me the soul of ossobuco, but my fast-paced Milanese weeknights demand a smarter tempo. The pressure cooker is not a compromise—it is an architectural asset, tenderizing the veal shank and drawing out marrow richness while preserving every ounce of aromatics. Let the ingredients do the heavy lifting: use center-cut shanks with good bone proportion, a lively Roero Arneis, and never skip the hazelnut gremolata—it is the bright decorative roof on this savory foundation.
Elena Rossi
Effortless Northern Italian elegance for busy modern weeknights.
Milan-born Elena Rossi, her true passion was always simmering on the stove. Raised on the rich, comforting flavors of her grandmother's Piedmontese kitchen, Elena found herself constantly reimagining those time-intensive classics for her own demanding, fast-paced lifestyle. Today, Elena is the voice behind a beloved culinary movement that proves authentic Italian food does not require spending eight hours stirring a pot. She beautifully merges the precision of her design background with the soul of Northern Italian cooking, offering busy home cooks a stylish, stress-free approach to dinner. Whether she is utilizing a pressure cooker for a Tuesday night osso buco or elevating a high-quality store-bought brodo with fresh herbs, Elena empowers her readers to cook with confidence. Her recipes are a testament to the idea that practicality and elegance can perfectly coexist on the modern dinner table.